Bristol's Backyard Wine Gardens: Grape-Treading Grapes in City Spaces

Each quarter of an hour or so, an ageing diesel-powered railway carriage pulls into a spray-painted stop. Nearby, a police siren cuts through the near-constant traffic drone. Daily travelers hurry past collapsing, ivy-draped garden fences as storm clouds form.

This is perhaps the least likely spot you expect to find a perfectly formed grape-growing plot. However James Bayliss-Smith has managed to four dozen established plants heavy with plump mauve berries on a rambling garden plot situated between a line of 1930s houses and a commuter railway just above Bristol downtown.

"I've seen individuals hiding heroin or other items in the shrubbery," states the grower. "Yet you simply continue ... and keep tending to your grapevines."

The cameraman, forty-six, a filmmaker who also has a kombucha drinks business, is not the only urban winemaker. He has pulled together a informal group of growers who make vintage from several discreet urban vineyards tucked away in back gardens and community plots across Bristol. The project is too clandestine to have an official name yet, but the group's messaging chat is named Grape Expectations.

Urban Wine Gardens Across the World

So far, Bayliss-Smith's allotment is the only one listed in the Urban Vineyards Association's upcoming world atlas, which features better-known urban wineries such as the eighteen hundred plants on the hillsides of the French capital's historic Montmartre neighbourhood and more than 3,000 vines with views of and within Turin. The Italian-based charitable organization is at the forefront of a movement reviving urban grape cultivation in traditional winemaking nations, but has discovered them all over the world, including urban centers in Japan, South Asia and Central Asia.

"Grape gardens help urban areas remain greener and more diverse. These spaces preserve open space from development by creating permanent, yielding farming plots within cities," says the organization's leader.

Like all wines, those produced in cities are a product of the soils the vines thrive in, the vagaries of the weather and the people who care for the fruit. "Each vintage embodies the charm, local spirit, environment and heritage of a urban center," notes the spokesperson.

Unknown Polish Variety

Back in the city, the grower is in a race against time to harvest the grapevines he grew from a cutting abandoned in his garden by a Polish family. Should the rain arrives, then the birds may seize their chance to attack again. "This is the enigmatic Eastern European grape," he comments, as he cleans damaged and rotten berries from the shimmering clusters. "The variety remains uncertain their exact classification, but they are certainly hardy. Unlike noble varieties – Burgundy grapes, Chardonnay and additional renowned French grapes – you need not spray them with pesticides ... this could be a special variety that was bred by the Eastern Bloc."

Collective Efforts Throughout the City

Additional participants of the group are additionally making the most of sunny interludes between showers of autumn rain. On the terrace with views of Bristol's glistening waterfront, where historic trading ships once bobbed with casks of wine from Europe and the Iberian peninsula, one cultivator is collecting her rondo grapes from approximately 50 vines. "I love the aroma of these vines. The scent is so evocative," she says, stopping with a container of grapes slung over her shoulder. "It's the scent of southern France when you roll down the car windows on vacation."

The humanitarian worker, fifty-two, who has spent over 20 years working for humanitarian organizations in conflict zones, unexpectedly took over the vineyard when she moved back to the United Kingdom from Kenya with her family in recent years. She experienced an overwhelming duty to look after the grapevines in the garden of their new home. "This plot has already survived three different owners," she explains. "I really like the idea of environmental care – of handing this down to future caretakers so they can keep cultivating from this land."

Terraced Gardens and Natural Winemaking

Nearby, the remaining cultivators of the group are busily laboring on the steep inclines of the local river valley. One filmmaker has established over one hundred fifty vines perched on ledges in her wild half-acre garden, which tumbles down towards the muddy local waterway. "People are always surprised," she notes, gesturing towards the tangled grape garden. "They can't believe they can see rows of vines in a urban neighborhood."

Currently, Scofield, sixty, is picking clusters of deep violet dark berries from lines of vines slung across the cliff-side with the assistance of her child, Luca. The conservationist, a documentary producer who has worked on Netflix's nature programming and television network's Gardeners' World, was inspired to plant grapes after observing her neighbor's vines. She's discovered that amateurs can produce intriguing, enjoyable natural wine, which can command prices of upwards of seven pounds a glass in the increasing quantity of establishments specialising in low-processing vintages. "It's just incredibly satisfying that you can truly make good, natural wine," she says. "It is quite fashionable, but in reality it's reviving an old way of making wine."

"During foot-stomping the fruit, the various natural microorganisms come off the surfaces into the juice," explains Scofield, partially submerged in a container of small branches, seeds and crimson juice. "This represents how vintages were made traditionally, but industrial wineries add preservatives to kill the natural cultures and then add a commercially produced yeast."

Difficult Environments and Inventive Approaches

In the immediate vicinity sprightly retiree another cultivator, who motivated Scofield to establish her vines, has assembled his friends to harvest white wine varieties from one hundred plants he has arranged precisely across two terraces. Reeve, a Lancashire-born PE teacher who taught at Bristol University developed a passion for viticulture on regular visits to Europe. However it is a challenge to cultivate Chardonnay grapes in the humidity of the valley, with temperature fluctuations moving through from the Bristol Channel. "I wanted to make Burgundian wines in this location, which is somewhat ambitious," says the retiree with amusement. "This variety is slow-maturing and very sensitive to mildew."

"I wanted to make Burgundian wines here, which is rather ambitious"

The unpredictable local weather is not the sole challenge encountered by winegrowers. Reeve has been compelled to erect a fence on

Marco Bauer
Marco Bauer

Elara is a passionate interior designer and blogger, sharing her expertise on home styling and sustainable living.